Ibyerekeye Inkomoko no Guhitamo Ishati ya Aloha

Ubwoko bw'imyenda ya RAYON

Amababa abiri ----------- Imirongo yintambara (vertical) na weft (horizontal) yateguwe hamwe na tekinike ya horizontal na vertical tekinike (kuboha neza) ya fibre ndende ya RAYON (fibre ikomeza fibre).Ubuso bworoshye kandi bukungahaye ku mucyo, kandi bufite ibiranga umubiri woroshye.
Amababa abiri ahwanye nigitambara cyoroshye cyane kandi cyera.Mu Burayi no muri Amerika, silike yera yera yitwa "Habutae" mu Cyongereza.RAYON (umwenda wera wa RAYON yera isa na silike yera yera) nkubu bwoko bwamababa abiri yakoreshejwe cyane kumashati ya ALOHA mumwaka wa 1940 nintangiriro za 1950, cyane cyane mubicuruzwa bya ALOHA SHIRT.
FUJIET ---------- Intambara (vertical) ikozwe muri fibre ndende ya RAYON, naho weft (horizontal) ikozwe muri fibre ngufi ya RAYON (fibre yimyanda mike ------, igiciro- kugabanya uburyo bwo gukoresha imyanda), nabwo ni imyenda ihagaritse kandi ihagaritse imyenda (kuboha neza).Kuberako fibre ya RAYON ubwayo ari ntoya cyane, kabone niyo haba hakoreshwa umubare munini wa fibre ngufi, ubuso bwigitambara ntaho butandukaniye cyane nu mababa abiri ya RAYON yimyenda yuzuye ya fibre ndende, kandi bihendutse kuruta amababa abiri ya RAYON kandi arashobora gukorerwa ku giciro gito.
Kuberako ubudodo bukozwe muri fibre ngufi, umwenda ubwawo uba muremure kuruta amababa abiri RAYON.Kuberako ibyiyumvo byegeranye cyane na FUJI SILK, bita FUJIET.
FUJIET yakoreshejwe ku mashati ya ALOHA kuva 1950.ALOHA SHIRT ya Duke Kahanamoku ikozwe hafi ya FUJIET.
Impamba zo kugabanya urukuta ----------- Intambara (vertical) ikozwe mumutwe udasunitswe (umugozi wa fibre fibre idafunze), naho ubudodo (umugozi utambitse) bukozwe mumutwe wurukuta (hamwe numurongo wingenzi nku axis hamwe nudusimba twinshi twa fibre twiziritse kuri yo), kandi umwenda umwe bikozwe muburyo buhagaritse kandi buringaniye.
Ubuso bwacyo bufite imiterere-ya convex.Kuberako guturika bisa cyane na wallpaper, byitwa WALL SILK mucyongereza.
Ubusanzwe, ubu bwoko bwimyenda yimyenda ya convex na convex buva mubuyapani, ibikoresho bikoreshwa mubuyapani nubudodo, gusa Ubuyapani bwakoresheje, bwa kimono, ni ubwoko bwimyenda yo murwego rwohejuru bugaragaza nkana ubwiza bwa convex na convex na umva.
Ubwo buryo bumwe bw’imyenda bwakoreshejwe muri Hawaii hagati ya 1930 no mu ntangiriro ya 1950 nyuma y’ubucuruzi hagati y’Ubuyapani na Amerika bwongeye gufungurwa (ubucuruzi bwahagaritswe nyuma y’intambara yabaye hagati y’Ubuyapani na Amerika), ariko iyi myenda yometse ku rukuta. bikozwe muri fibre ya RAYON yakoreshejwe kumashati ya ALOHA ifite imiterere gakondo yabayapani kimonos.
Kubera ko ubuso busa nubusobanuro bwa convex hamwe na convex yo kumva wallpaper, uburyo bumwe gusa burashobora gukoreshwa mugusiga irangi ryintoki, kuburyo abanyabukorikori nkabo ntibashobora kwemeza ko ikiguzi cyintoki gikomeza kwiyongera, hamwe niterambere ryumusaruro rusange winganda, nkibyo imyenda ntikigaragara nyuma ya za 1960.
ALOHA SHIRT ya RAYON nayo ifite intege nke.Ni ukuvuga, hazabaho kugabanuka kwatewe nuburyo bwo gukora isuku, kandi kugabanuka birakabije.Nibyiza rero gukoresha amafaranga menshi kugirango wohereze kumesa idasanzwe yo gukora isuku.Niba wihanaguye, kata buhoro buhoro bishoboka.
Hariho kandi "Ntabwo nshobora gukora isuku iteye ikibazo, ariko kandi ndayikubita byoroheje, kandi noherejwe kumesa?"Cyangwa hitamo "Mbega kwinginga!"Nshuti, hanyuma ushyire muburyo bwimashini imesa kugirango ukarabe nibyiza, ariko nibyiza gushira mumyenda yo kumesa kugirango wirinde umwenda.
Niba hari inshuti zigomba kumenya kumenya gusukura ALOHA SHIRT nkinzira nziza, noneho kora intangiriro idasanzwe nyuma.
ALOHA SHIRT umwamikazi wigitambara - SILK
Mu mateka yaALOHA SHIRT, byakozwe mbere muri kimonos yazanwe n'abimukira b'Abayapani muri Hawaii.Kubwibyo, ibikoresho bya kimono bifite agaciro cyane nubudodo bwibikoresho bya silik, SHITO ya ALOHA SHIRT yibikoresho bya silik nayo ni SHITANI ya ALOHA yateye imbere, ariko kandi yumwimerere kandi igezweho.Yaba kimono cyangwa imyenda yuburengerazuba, silk yamye ishyiraho status yibikoresho byo murwego rwohejuru.
Kuva mu bihugu by’Ubuyapani byagaruwe na Meiji kugeza mu mpinduramatwara mu nganda, nyuma y’intambara yabanjirije intambara yo mu gihe cya Taisho / Showa, ubudodo bufite umwanya ukomeye mu Buyapani bwohereza ibicuruzwa mu mahanga.Ikoranabuhanga mu buhinzi n’ikoranabuhanga rya silike byaturutse mu Bushinwa, ariko bikwira no mu bihugu by’Uburayi, ariko kubera umwete n’akazi gakomeye by’abanyabukorikori b’Abayapani ubwabo, ibicuruzwa by’ubudodo byo ku rwego rw’isi byakozwe hakiri kare cyane, nko mu gihe cy’ingoma ya Qing, ubudodo bw’Ubuyapani bwagurishijwe gusubira mu Bushinwa, uzwi cyane.Kubwibyo, ubudodo bwabayapani bwashimiwe nabanyaburengerazuba, nyuma bugaragarira mu ishati ya ALOHA yakunzwe cyane.
Ubudodo bukozwe mubudodo, kubwibyo bushobora gusiga irangi intoki gusa, igiciro rero ni kinini.Amashati ya ALOHA (nindi myenda) yakozwe mubudodo yakorwaga kera nko muri 1930 no muri 1950.
Kubwibyo, ibintu VINTAGE ni gake cyane kandi bihenze cyane, kandi biragoye ko ibirango byororoka byiki gihe gukoresha imyenda nkiyi kugirango ikorwe.Rimwe na rimwe hariho ibishushanyo mbonera, igiciro cyacyo ntabwo kiri hasi kandi umubare ni muto cyane, bityo rero gukoresha uburyo bwa kera buboheye ibikoresho bya silike ALOHA SHIRT ishushanya bishobora kwitwa ALOHA SHIRT ishushanya ibyiza.
Uruhu rwimyenda yuruhu rwumva ari rwiza cyane, nkibikoresho byimbere nkubushinwa bwa kera ndetse naba aristocracies bo muburayi nabanyamerika bakunda, silik nibintu bisanzwe, kubwibyo abantu bafite allergie yuruhu nabo barashobora gukoresha, ibikoresho bya silike bifite urumuri rwumye kandi rwumva ruhumeka cyane , imirasire yizuba yizuba irashobora kurinda uruhu icyarimwe cyumye kandi gihumeka.Ibi ntibishobora gusimburwa nibindi bikoresho.
Intege nke z'ibikoresho bya silike ni ubwoba bwo gutwarwa nisuri ibyuya, bityo rero bigomba gukaraba buri gihe, biroroshye cyane kandi bigoye kwita kubikoresho, uburyo bwo gukora isuku nabwo burahangayikishije cyane, byoroshye kuribwa nudukoko, kandi kubika imiti yica udukoko ni ngombwa.Nkumugore woroshye ukeneye kwitabwaho.
Kugeza ubu, hari umubare munini waALOHA SHIRTimyenda ---- ipamba nziza
Impamba ni ibikoresho byiza cyane.Ibikoresho ubwabyo biroroshye kugura kubwinshi, hamwe nishati ya ALOHA ikozwe mu ipamba niyo ihendutse kandi myinshi.Ugereranije biraramba kandi byoroshye gusukura uko bishakiye.Mubyongeyeho, nibyiza cyane kurenza RAYON hamwe nubudodo mukubura ibyuya.
Nta ntege nke zihari, niba intege nke, usibye kugabanuka no gukuna, ni ukuvuga, nyuma yigihe kinini cyo gukoresha no gukora isuku nyuma yamabara azimye kuruta ibindi bikoresho, ariko abantu bamwe batekereza ko nabyo ari uburyohe.
ALOHA SHIRT y'ibicuruzwa by'ipamba yavutse bwa mbere hagati ya 1950 none ubu ni umwenda wa ALOHA SHIRT, wavukiye cyane cyane muri Amerika kubera ingaruka z'imyambarire ya ALOHA SHIRT.Nyuma, uturere twambere twa ALOHA SHIRT nka Hawaii twatangiye gukora cyane ibicuruzwa bihendutse kugirango bisimbuze ibicuruzwa bihenze kubaturage.
Ishati ya ALOHA irashobora kugurwa hafi ya hose muriyi minsi, harimo no muri Hawaii, ariko ibyinshi bikozwe mu ipamba kandi bigezweho.Niba ushaka kugura ishusho ya ALOHA SHIRT guhera muri 1950, urashobora kugura gusa ishusho ya ALOHA SHIRT / kurangiza / hamwe nicyitegererezo cyishati yambere ya Aloha yabanyamerika muri pamba gusa mugihe uhisemo ubwoko bwa kopi.
Ni ubuhe bwoko bw'ishati ya ALOHA ngomba kugura?
Usibye imyenda yavuzwe haruguru, hari amashati ya ALOHA akozwe mubikoresho byinshi nka fibre chimique.Kubera ko ahanini bitagaragaye mugihe cyizahabu cya ALOHA SHIRT muri Amerika kera, ikoreshwa mumashati atandukanye yindabyo muri iki gihe (amashati yindabyo asanzwe asa nay'abakecuru bageze mu za bukuru n'abageze mu zabukuru), ntabwo ari intangiriro ngufi.
Nubwo rero wagura SHIRT ALOHA nyayo, ugomba kubanza gutekereza kubintu bibiri:
1) Nkunda moderi zigezweho kandi ziboneka hose (Hawaii gutembera ibicuruzwa byaho).
2) Kunda ishusho ya ALOHA SHIRT nibara ryibihe bya kera byabanyamerika.
Nyuma yo gufata icyemezo 1) cyangwa 2) hejuru, suzuma itandukaniro riri hagati yimyenda nubudasa bwinyuma butandukanye bugereranywa na buri mwenda.Mubyukuri, hariho itandukaniro ryinshi ryibonekeje, cyane cyane mubihe byashize igihe SHIRT ya ALOHA yari ikunzwe cyane muri Amerika.
------------------ nicyitegererezo cyabayapani.Nka: carp, Umusozi wa Fuji, nibindi muburyo budasubirwamo.Byose biva mubishushanyo kuri kimonos gakondo y'Abayapani.
Igikoresho cyiburengerazuba ------------------- Iburengerazuba bikunda.Nka: abahagarariye cyane ni indabyo za Hawai, inanasi, igiti cyitwa cocout nibindi.
プ ル オ ー バ -------- ---------- CYANE CYANE.Nubwoko bwo gukurura.
Ibikurikira, tuzakomeza kumenyekanisha imwe mu ngingo zingenzi za ALOHA SHIRT igikundiro "buto".
Kuvuga kuri "buto" nabyo bigira uruhare runini mubikundiro bya ALOHA SHIRT.Hariho kandi ubwoko bwinshi bwa buto bukoreshwa kumashati ya ALOHA.Utubuto dutandukanye dukora ALOHA SHIRT itandukanye.
Utubuto dusanzwe ni: imigano / coconut / shell / ibyuma, nibindi. Muri iki gihe, hariho sisitemu ya urea / organic organique.Utubuto twibikoresho bimwe bifite ubunini nuburyo butandukanye, kandi ibirango bitandukanye byumva bitandukanye.Icyangombwa nuko buto zitandukanye mubihe bitandukanye no mukarere, kandi buto kumashati ya ALOHA iratandukanye ukurikije igihe amashati ya Aloha yagurishijwe.Impuguke ALOHA SHIRT ivangura irashobora gutandukanya igihe cyo kubyara SHOZI ya ALOHA ishingiye kuri buto.
Ibikurikira nubwoko bwibanze nibiranga buto
Umugano -------------- Gukoresha imigano hamwe nuduce twinshi twa fibre fibre, umusenyi hamwe nigihe kirekire uzakoreshwa bizagaragara nkijimye yijimye.Ubwinshi bwa fibre tissue hafi yumuzi wimigano ni muremure.Imiterere gakondo y'Abayapani ALOHA SHIRT mu myaka ya za 1950 yakoresheje cyane iyi buto y'imigano, kubera ko imigano imwe ishobora gukoresha umuzi gusa, ingano y'ibikoresho byakusanyirijwe hamwe ntabwo ari nini, kandi uburyo bwo gukanda buto ni intoki rwose, bityo bwakoreshejwe kuri ALOHA gusa IShati mbere ya 1930 kugeza hagati ya 1950.
Coconut --------------- Utubuto twakozwe muguhindura cocout nabwo buto busanzwe.Ibikoresho biroroshye gushushanya uburyo butandukanye nubunini butandukanye.Abahinguzi ba ALOHA SHIRT bo muri Hawayi kuva 1930 kugeza 1950 bakoresheje iyi buto ahanini kumashati ya ALOHA hamwe nindabyo zuburengerazuba.
Igikonoshwa ---------------- Ukoresheje ikinyugunyugu cyera / igikonjo cyikinyugunyugu cyahindutse kiva muri buto, hamwe nubushishozi buboneye kandi bwiza.Byakoreshwaga cyane kumashati gakondo yubuyapani yashushanyije yo muntangiriro ya 1930 hamwe nishati ya ALOHA ikozwe mubudodo nyuma yintambara.Byakoreshejwe murwego rwohejuru rwibiciro umukandara SHIRT.Ndetse byateye imbere cyane ni buto yangiza ibishishwa kugirango ibahe ibara ryihariye.
Utubuto twicyuma --------------- Utubuto twicyuma.Ubuso bwa buto mubusanzwe bukozwe mumafaranga ya kera / kuruhande rwumurwanyi / Umwami KAMEHAMEHA (umwami wa kavukire wa Hawayi) / abamamaji nibindi. Kuva hagati ya 1950, kugirango hongerwemo akamaro ko kwibuka no guhuza ibitekerezo byo murwego rwo hejuru, bifite yakoreshejwe kumyenda yubudodo (silk) hamwe nishati ya ALOHA hamwe nibintu bimwe byo kwibuka.